1. May 2018. I decided to save Cham Island’s so called best beach till last, penciling in a visit for my final afternoon before heading back to Hoi An. So how would it measure up against the understated strip of Bai Xep and the handsome but plastic-ridden Bai Ong? This beach is located in the southwest of the island, just a ten-minute drive from Bai Huong Village. On arrival I could immediately see that this was the largest of Cham’s golden sands and easily the best kept.
2. May 2018. It was by far the busiest of Cham’s beaches too, with about twenty people lounging about under the trees in the shade. Nobody seemed interested in charging me for the deckchair and parasol I settled down at and indeed no one from the beach café bothered to come over to pedal any of their snacks. In fact, even when I went over to the deserted bar for a cold drink I had to persistently call out for someone to come and take my money.
3. May 2018. It was a great afternoon napping on Bai Chong with Neil Young’s Harvest Moon on the headphones. On the verge of succumbing to sleep, I was more than a little rattled when a nearby boat blared its horn and suddenly just about everyone got up and left! Jumping into a smaller vessel that had come out to shore to collect them, I watched as the beach emptied, leaving just two Swiss guys and myself. “Not bad eh?” one of them said. Not bad at all!
4. May 2018. So it was just the Swiss and I for the rest of the day. At some point even the café closed as the sky darkened and it started to rain a little to the distant sound of thunder back on the mainland.
5. May 2018. Eventually the Swiss dudes departed too and I was perfectly alone for half an hour until the old guy from my homestay came to pick me up. Bizarrely, as I departed for the main road, a beach attendant appeared from out of nowhere and asked me to pay a 20.000 VND entrance fee. I briefly considered contesting it before realizing we were literally talking about £0.65/€0.75/$0.85. So he wrote me up a ticket, I took one last look back at the gorgeous beach oasis before me and headed off with thoughts of dinner.
For more on my adventures here check out my other articles from all over Cham Island.
I’ve also written many more pieces from across Vietnam.