1. The Grand Place, January 2005. In the autumn of 2004 I found myself at a major life crossroads. Should I take a tempting job offer in the south of Italy? Or move to Belgium with my new girlfriend? Naturally the girl won and I packed my bags, heading off to the land of chocolate and waffles. Based in the gorgeous university town of Leuven, Belgium’s capital was just a handy thirty-minute train ride away. And while the city never really enchanted me, there’s no doubting the splendour of The Grand Place, its pulsing focal point. This photo was taken just a few months after I arrived. I’d already split up with the girl and my old friend Sine was in town. It was a chilly but charming winter’s afternoon, the perfect day for sitting at one of the square’s fancy cafes drinking hot chocolate.