1. Klapka Square, February 2003. When I jumped on the bus to Komárno I didn’t know a single thing about the little Slovak town I was heading to. I was with Sladjana, a Canadian-Serb I was kind of seeing in Bratislava. She was a mysterious, elusive sort and in retrospect I knew as much about her as I did of Komárno. On arrival we were greeted by a wintry ghost town set at the confluence of the mostly frozen Danube and Váh rivers. The streets were caked in snow, with perilous spots of black ice. This pretty square is dominated by Komárno’s town hall, while the statue is of Hungarian revolutionary György Klapka, who bravely led his men as the last line of defence against the Austrian Imperial Army.