1. Namestie Majstra Pavla, November 2002. The winter of 2002 was a memorable one for me. Among the many adventures enjoyed during those freezing cold Slovak months was a fantastic magical mystery tour bus trip around the country with my newfound friends and teaching colleagues. The little town of Levoča, situated in the Prešov region of Eastern Slovakia, was just one of many stops we made over a three day journey. With only an hour or so to jump off and enjoy its olde-worlde feel and UNESCO-endorsed architecture, there was no time to lose! It was a chilly, grey afternoon and there was an almost unnerving feel to the deserted main square. Protected by a squadron of ghostly trees, this imposing statue of Ludovít Štúr holds court. Štúr was a nineteenth century politician, poet, journalist, teacher, philosopher and linguist.