1. Ling Shang Restaurant Village, November 2017. Having spent the afternoon hiking around the wonderful Yongjia Shu Yuan National Park, I had naturally built up quite an appetite. I could have just gone to a local hole-in-the-wall and filled up on cheerful cheapness. But then I’d have been missing out on this wondrous four hundred year old restaurant village, seemingly engraved into the side of a mountain overlooking a babbling brook.