1. Yongmunsa Temple, February 2015. “Hi I’m River, so nice to meet you!” he said, clamping a hand down on my shoulder. It was early morning in Seoul and I was incredibly hungover after a beer-fuelled night of noraebang (Korean Karaoke) had led to full-on alcohol carnage at Club FF. I was a virtual zombie in the car as River sped off for the fifty-three kilometer journey. Located in the sleepy country province of Yangpyeong, the walking trail up to the temple complex begins here in the forest valley of Yongmunsan Mountain.