Dorasan Train Station, February 2015. A visit to the Korean demilitarised zone is a fascinating experience for anyone with even a passing interest in the region’s tumultuous history. Basically a U.S. occupied buffer zone between North and South Korea, I was able to get a behind-the-scenes look with an organized tour, arranged through the USO (United Service Organisation) at Camp Kim Military Base. Departing from Seoul by bus, we were ushered into the territory through a series of security checkpoints, before being dropped off at a theater where a short film awaited us on the region’s history. Signing a declaration that basically said the USO could not be held responsible for any deaths during the tour (seriously!), we were then whisked away to the DMZ’s key points of interest. This restored train station, which once connected the two countries, now carries tourists four times a day from Seoul. It lies 205km from Pyongyang.