Phnom Sampeau, December 2015. The curious little Cambodian city of Battambang offers visitors a handful of unique sights that stand right up there with the country’s must-see attractions. One of these is Phnom Sampeau, a massive limestone outcrop 12 kilometres outside the town centre. It’s a steep forty-minute walk up to its highest paths, or you can pay an entrepreneurial moto-man four dollars to whisk you up. About halfway up the hill a side road leads you under a gate into the site of Battambang’s grisly Killing Caves. It was here that the Khmer Rouge bludgeoned hundreds of people to death and tossed their bodies through the skylights of the caves. A series of gruesome sculptures depict the atrocities, while down in the main cave there’s a glass case memorial of skulls and bones. Not for the fainthearted.